QUESTION:
I am completing some interior painting projects and have had problems in the past with painting the wood molding between the wall and the ceiling. When there is a small gap between the wood and the ceiling it shows up as a large black line or gap. I have tried to spackle these gaps in the past with no success. What will work?
ANSWER:
I like to use painter's caulk in wood trim joints that have cracks and openings. Painters caulk is easy to use - usually a water based product. Don't use silicone caulk because it may not hold paint.
To fill the joints, simply apply a small bead of caulk. I like to smooth the caulk with my finger dipped in soapy water. You can create a smooth joint that is easy to paint and will move as the wood expands and contracts to eliminate future cracks.
I also use caulk for small cracks in plaster and drywall and to caulk corner joints that have opened up. On a textured wall I will poke, rub, dab, slide, and otherwise manipulate the caulk surface to match the texture.
QUESTION:
I have a cement drive that is in good shape except for its appearance. There are many stains, oil spots, rust stains and even mildew or green growths. How can I clean this drive to make it look like new?
ANSWER:
The quick and easy way to clean a drive is with a high-pressure water washer. Rent the best one you can find and get the wide, broom type tip.
Give the drive a through blast with the high-pressure washer and this will remove all the dirt and most of the stains. For the remaining rust stains, treat the areas with oxalic acid and water or a rust removal chemical for decks. Soak the area with the acid or cleaner and then rinse. Laundry bleach will lighten and kill the mildew and algae. Blast with the high-pressure water for a final cleaning.
For oil stains that remain after the initial blasting, scrub the areas with MEX or a TSP substitute. Rinse well. Use skin and eye protection and follow label instructions for all the chemicals. You can also try driveway cleaner chemicals.
QUESTION:
This summer I will be painting the old home I just bought. I would like to match the type of exterior paint. How do I tell if the paint is oil based or latex?
ANSWER:
Wet a rag with denatured alcohol and rub the paint surface. If paint comes off in the rag or the paints gets tacky, it is latex paint. If the surface remains untouched, it is oil based paint.
Most professionals do recommend matching the type of paint for good bonding and to match the hardness and flexibility characteristics. Often latex is applied over oil because it is more flexible and can breath if there are minor moisture problems.
Oil paint should not be applied over latex because it dries to a harder, less flexible, less porous, surface and to may peel and crack.
QUESTION:
We are having problems with a toilet installed in 1949. At times it flushes perfectly, but often after the waste has been flushed, the paper returns. Twice a plumber has removed the stool and snaked it but found nothing clogging it. Is there a possible solution short of replacement?
ANSWER:
I assume the plumber checked the toilet and the lines from the toilet to the main sewer or septic system and that those drain lines are clear. I suspect you have an inadequate or slow flow of water from the tank into the bowl. There are several things to check.
Check the water level in the tank. Is it at the recommended level mark - normally just below the top of the overflow tube?
When flushed, is the flush valve (flopper or ball valve) remaining open until the water level is below the valve and just above outlet? Hold this valve open manually and check the flush. The flopper or ball can be waterlogged or damaged and closing before all the water is out of the tank.
Finally, check the holes in the rim or the jet tube in the trap below the water line. Are they plugged or partially plugged with hard water deposits? You can clear these with and acid cleaner from a plumbing supply dealer. You can also clear them with a stiff brush or small piece of wood dowel.
To use an acid cleaner for the holes below the rim, place plumber's putty below the rim to block the holes. Then following the directions on the cleaner label, pour the cleaner down the overflow tube. This will allow the cleaner to soak the small rim holes and dissolve the deposits. You may have to manually break the deposits loose with a brush or dowel.
For the jet tube below the water line in the toilet trap, use the acid cleaner. For the acid treatments, follow the timing and precautions recommended on the cleaner label. I do not recommend using any type of general acid - only use a product recommended for toilet cleaning.
I would avoid a replacement toilet because the new toilets are all designed with a 1.6 gallon flush. At times these cause problems with older plumbing systems. If you replace the toilet, look for the newer Kohler design with a larger trap and bigger "water spot". I understand they work well and cost around $100.
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QUESTION:
I have a problem with peeling paint and milde
w on the paint in the bathroom. We have a big family and use the exhaust fan, but we still have a problem. What can we do with the paint?
ANSWER:
You should try to run the exhaust fan as much as possible. Try to operate it until the shower walls are dry. Consider adding a timer switch so the fan can be set to run for an hour after the bathroom is used.
I have had great luck with a bathroom paint that is guaranteed not to mildew or peel. Sound too good to be true? Well, over the past 5 years in my home, I have found it does not
mildew and does not peel
Try Zinsser brand, Perma-White, Mildew-Proof, Bathroom Paint. You will find it in most paint departments and paint stores. It is self-priming, water based, low odor, and can be tinted.
To use the Perma-White, you do need to kill any mildew with laundry bleach. Water stains or dark stains should be primed with BIN. The surface must be clean and free of loose paint, dirt, grease, and soap film. Apply two coats. The first coat primes and seals the surface. The second coat provides more mildew resistance and scrub-resistance.
QUESTION:
When we moved into our new place, we had some friends that scratched the woodwork moving furniture. The scratches are quite deep and you can see the white wood under the nice, dark stain. How can we fix this?
ANSWER:
Lightly sand or steel wool the area to remove
any loose wood fibers. Stain the light colored scrat
ch with an oil based stain that will match the color of the finish. Use a very small amount of stain on a rag and scrub the oil stain into the scratch. When the wood in the scratch is the right color, is will almost disappear.
Several companies have simplified this repair process by putting oil based wood stain into marker-like containers. You just rub the stain marker on the scratch. I suggest you start with a stain color that is lighter than the original finish because torn and scratched wood fibers will absorb stain quickly and darken quickly. You can always apply a second coat if the first coat is too light in color.
To make the finish look like new, you can apply a wipe-on oil finish over the stained scratch. Use a small paint brush or Q-Tip to apply the clear finish to the damaged area only. Several coats can be used to build up a shiny finish.
QUESTION:
I have had bad experiences painting ceilings. I use good quality, semi-gloss paint and a roller. I always end up with lap marks and shiny spots. Any suggestions?
ANSWER:
I suggest you try using flat paint specifically designed for ceilings. Semi-gloss tends to show lap m
arks and any uneven application. Flat paint is very forgiving and the better quality flat paints cover well and still can be cleaned.
You also need to practice your application techniques. With a roller evenly filled with
paint, you should apply the paint in a "W" or "M" pattern over a 3 by 3 foot area. This spreads the initial, thick paint over a wider area. Then, work your roller up and down or left and right to even the coat of paint over the whole area.
Always try to paint from a wet edge so you new application blends in with the paint on the wall. When you lap new paint over dry paint, you run the risk of a lap mark. Finally, use lots of light so you can easily see how the paint is covering.
QUESTION:
We are looking for an easy way to keep our shower clean. We have trouble with cleaning chores and all hate to clean the tub and shower.
ANSWER:
Meticulously clean the shower and tub with a commercial cleaner. Some of the better cleaners are Comet Non Abrasive Cleaner or Tilex. Once the shower is clean, all you need to do is wipe down the wet surfaces after a shower. You can use a squeegee on flat surfaces and a towel on the rest. If water is wiped from the surface, there will be no water stains and no dirt build up.
You can also try a product called CLEAN SHOWER. You lightly mist the shower, glass, curtain and fixtures after a shower. Water runs off quickly and the shower stays clean. CLEAN SHOWER is inexpensive and you will find it in many stores.
QUESTION:
We have a home that is about five years old and the clothes dryer vent goes
through the floor, then travels about 10 feet between the finished floor and ceiling to an outside vent. We have noticed lint collecting near the vent outside. We clean the lint filter with each load of laundry but are concerned lint may collect inside the pipe and be a fire hazard. It is working properly now. Is there some way the vent pipe can be blown clean?
ANSWER:
Great Question! Clothes dryer manufacturers normally recommend a smooth metal vent pipe with minimal bends that can be checked and cleaned periodically. Vent pipes that pose the greatest risk are the flexible plastic vent pipes because lint can build up on the rough surface and the bends may not be smooth and uniform. The plastic pipe is also flammable.
If you know the existing vent is make of smooth metal with smooth metal elbows and fittings, you have limited risk. I still think you should try to vacuum out the vent every year through the inlet and discharge. You can use extensions on a shop vacuum. You could also try to blow it out with a
shop vacuum. If you don't have the equipment, contact a furnace duct cleaning company.
If you have a flexible, plastic vent pipe, it shoul
d be removed and replaced with a metal vent with smooth metal elbows and fittings.
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